Saturday, April 19, 2008

Sowats the Point? (Apr 2008)

View from trail near Sowats Point, where we hiked out, looking down into Kwagunt (center) and Kanab Creek (deep far left).

Yes that is the question I often get asked. So what is the point of going back to the Grand Canyon over and over again? It's extremely hard for me to explain the allure, the mystery, the spirit, the challenge, and the rewards I get while being there, but it's what I really look forward to doing over and over again, especially since I will never come close to seeing the entire canyon and all 100 or more of its side canyons in my lifetime.

The trip here was one I planned over 4 months ago. Mike agreed to accompany me on 45 miles of difficult terrain (half of it unknown to either of us) to some of the most remote, but best areas of the canyon. We drove two vehicles, and placed one at Sowats Point, then drove the other to Monument Point, where we started the 10 mile hike (but also dropping one vertical mile) down to the river to one of my all-time favorite spots--Deer Creek Falls. After resting up there and seeing only a handful of hikers (the only ones we would see all week), we continued two miles or so down river on a non-existent route to the mouth of Cranberry Canyon, where we set up for our first night.

The next day was another difficult five miles of route finding and boulder hopping along the river down to the mouth of Kanab Creek above the rapids (shown here). While there we were treated to a tasty lunch by a passing private boat trip, several whom we met near Deer Creek the day before. They couldn't believe we hiked so fast, although it surely felt slow to us. After lunch we hiked an hour up Kanab Creek to a nice, quiet camp spot. Then the next morning we hiked up Kanab Creek another hour to Whispering Falls, which is indescribably beautiful. Later that afternoon we hiked up into Scotty's Hollow, another incredibly beautiful side canyon of Kanab Creek. Scotty's has many waterfalls, plunge pools, smooth walls, narrows, and hanging gardens. Finally, that evening we pulled in to Showerbath Spring, where we spent our third and last night.

Our last morning we hiked up Kanab Creek more to the confluence of Jumpup Canyon. We turned right to go up Jumpup, and explored the lower reaches of Indian Hollow Canyon and Kwagunt Canyon. Several years ago the water was flowing nicely down the lower parts of these canyons. This year is drier, so the water was not flowing as good. We ended up continuing all the way up Kwagunt to the Esplanade, where we found an old stock trail that took us all the way back up to the rim to our first vehicle, which was waiting for us at Sowats Point. So what is the point? I'm afraid my words and pictures will not do any justice. However, it was a wonderful trip.



Flying saucer rock on the Esplanade below Monument Point (upper right corner).










Beautiful desert marigolds on our descent to Deer Creek. Unfortunately, I had terrible allergies the first day due to all the pollen.
















Deer Creek Falls was coming down with much force due to spring runoff.














Red hot chili peppers growing like two eyes on a cactus?













Lower Kanab Creek has beautiful Muav ledges that were like walking on sidewalks.














This is the lower part of 200' tall Whispering Falls comes down into a deep plunge pool nestled next to a small cavern.















Me, swimming in some frigid, but refreshing water.












More waterfalls due to house-sized chokestones in Kanab Creek.












One of dozens of waterfall up in Scotty's Hollow.















Reflecting pools in Scotty's, and smooth redwall limestone make it an enchanting hike.















Showerbath Spring filling up my water bottle.










Video of Whispering Falls
 
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