Beautiful Indian Paintbrush flowers adorn Kim's head along the trail up.
Monday, May 05, 2008
Cinco de Mayo 19 times (May 2008)
It's our 19th anniversary, and we spent two days and a night in a cozy cabin inside Zion National Park. We did a nice hike up to Observation Point on the East Rim, as shown in the next two pictures.
Beautiful Indian Paintbrush flowers adorn Kim's head along the trail up.
Beautiful Indian Paintbrush flowers adorn Kim's head along the trail up.
Saturday, April 19, 2008
Sowats the Point? (Apr 2008)
View from trail near Sowats Point, where we hiked out, looking down into Kwagunt (center) and Kanab Creek (deep far left).
Yes that is the question I often get asked. So what is the point of going back to the Grand Canyon over and over again? It's extremely hard for me to explain the allure, the mystery, the spirit, the challenge, and the rewards I get while being there, but it's what I really look forward to doing over and over again, especially since I will never come close to seeing the entire canyon and all 100 or more of its side canyons in my lifetime.
The trip here was one I planned over 4 months ago. Mike agreed to accompany me on 45 miles of difficult terrain (half of it unknown to either of us) to some of the most remote, but best areas of the canyon. We drove two vehicles, and placed one at Sowats Point, then drove the other to Monument Point, where we started the 10 mile hike (but also dropping one vertical mile) down to the river to one of my all-time favorite spots--Deer Creek Falls. After resting up there and seeing only a handful of hikers (the only ones we would see all week), we continued two miles or so down river on a non-existent route to the mouth of Cranberry Canyon, where we set up for our first night.
The next day was another difficult five miles of route finding and boulder hopping along the river down to the mouth of Kanab Creek above the rapids (shown here).
While there we were treated to a tasty lunch by a passing private boat trip, several whom we met near Deer Creek the day before. They couldn't believe we hiked so fast, although it surely felt slow to us. After lunch we hiked an hour up Kanab Creek to a nice, quiet camp spot. Then the next morning we hiked up Kanab Creek another hour to Whispering Falls, which is indescribably beautiful. Later that afternoon we hiked up into Scotty's Hollow, another incredibly beautiful side canyon of Kanab Creek. Scotty's has many waterfalls, plunge pools, smooth walls, narrows, and hanging gardens. Finally, that evening we pulled in to Showerbath Spring, where we spent our third and last night.
Our last morning we hiked up Kanab Creek more to the confluence of Jumpup Canyon. We turned right to go up Jumpup, and explored the lower reaches of Indian Hollow Canyon and Kwagunt Canyon. Several years ago the water was flowing nicely down the lower parts of these canyons. This year is drier, so the water was not flowing as good. We ended up continuing all the way up Kwagunt to the Esplanade, where we found an old stock trail that took us all the way back up to the rim to our first vehicle, which was waiting for us at Sowats Point. So what is the point? I'm afraid my words and pictures will not do any justice. However, it was a wonderful trip.
Flying saucer rock on the Esplanade below Monument Point (upper right corner).
Beautiful desert marigolds on our descent to Deer Creek. Unfortunately, I had terrible allergies the first day due to all the pollen.
Deer Creek Falls was coming down with much force due to spring runoff.
Red hot chili peppers growing like two eyes on a cactus?
Lower Kanab Creek has beautiful Muav ledges that were like walking on sidewalks.
This is the lower part of 200' tall Whispering Falls comes down into a deep plunge pool nestled next to a small cavern.
Me, swimming in some frigid, but refreshing water.
More waterfalls due to house-sized chokestones in Kanab Creek.
One of dozens of waterfall up in Scotty's Hollow.
Reflecting pools in Scotty's, and smooth redwall limestone make it an enchanting hike.
Showerbath Spring filling up my water bottle.
Video of Whispering Falls
Yes that is the question I often get asked. So what is the point of going back to the Grand Canyon over and over again? It's extremely hard for me to explain the allure, the mystery, the spirit, the challenge, and the rewards I get while being there, but it's what I really look forward to doing over and over again, especially since I will never come close to seeing the entire canyon and all 100 or more of its side canyons in my lifetime.
The trip here was one I planned over 4 months ago. Mike agreed to accompany me on 45 miles of difficult terrain (half of it unknown to either of us) to some of the most remote, but best areas of the canyon. We drove two vehicles, and placed one at Sowats Point, then drove the other to Monument Point, where we started the 10 mile hike (but also dropping one vertical mile) down to the river to one of my all-time favorite spots--Deer Creek Falls. After resting up there and seeing only a handful of hikers (the only ones we would see all week), we continued two miles or so down river on a non-existent route to the mouth of Cranberry Canyon, where we set up for our first night.
The next day was another difficult five miles of route finding and boulder hopping along the river down to the mouth of Kanab Creek above the rapids (shown here).
While there we were treated to a tasty lunch by a passing private boat trip, several whom we met near Deer Creek the day before. They couldn't believe we hiked so fast, although it surely felt slow to us. After lunch we hiked an hour up Kanab Creek to a nice, quiet camp spot. Then the next morning we hiked up Kanab Creek another hour to Whispering Falls, which is indescribably beautiful. Later that afternoon we hiked up into Scotty's Hollow, another incredibly beautiful side canyon of Kanab Creek. Scotty's has many waterfalls, plunge pools, smooth walls, narrows, and hanging gardens. Finally, that evening we pulled in to Showerbath Spring, where we spent our third and last night.Our last morning we hiked up Kanab Creek more to the confluence of Jumpup Canyon. We turned right to go up Jumpup, and explored the lower reaches of Indian Hollow Canyon and Kwagunt Canyon. Several years ago the water was flowing nicely down the lower parts of these canyons. This year is drier, so the water was not flowing as good. We ended up continuing all the way up Kwagunt to the Esplanade, where we found an old stock trail that took us all the way back up to the rim to our first vehicle, which was waiting for us at Sowats Point. So what is the point? I'm afraid my words and pictures will not do any justice. However, it was a wonderful trip.
Flying saucer rock on the Esplanade below Monument Point (upper right corner).
Beautiful desert marigolds on our descent to Deer Creek. Unfortunately, I had terrible allergies the first day due to all the pollen.
Deer Creek Falls was coming down with much force due to spring runoff.
Red hot chili peppers growing like two eyes on a cactus?
Lower Kanab Creek has beautiful Muav ledges that were like walking on sidewalks.
This is the lower part of 200' tall Whispering Falls comes down into a deep plunge pool nestled next to a small cavern.
Me, swimming in some frigid, but refreshing water.
More waterfalls due to house-sized chokestones in Kanab Creek.
One of dozens of waterfall up in Scotty's Hollow.
Reflecting pools in Scotty's, and smooth redwall limestone make it an enchanting hike.
Showerbath Spring filling up my water bottle.
Video of Whispering Falls
Saturday, April 12, 2008
South Guardian Angel Peak (Apr 2008)
Last time I tried climbing the South Guardian was in the Fall, late in the day, and I ran out of daylight in order to complete the climb (from the spot in the first picture below here). Bo invited me to go with his hiking companion, Tanya, on a long day. According to the registry, we were the first people to summit it this year. It was a long, hot, grueling day, but the reward of the views up there were out of the world.
The summit beckons us up the ramp. Luckily, we did not have to cross any snow fields.
Me on top with views to the southeast behind me. Dozens of hoodoos, canyons, and peaks in the background.
Nice view of the West Temple in the distance.
South Guardian from the distance. This is not too far from where we started the hike. What is hard to see is the 1000' drop straight down into a canyon we have to cross (the Subway canyon) in order to begin climbing the peak.
The summit beckons us up the ramp. Luckily, we did not have to cross any snow fields.
Me on top with views to the southeast behind me. Dozens of hoodoos, canyons, and peaks in the background.
Nice view of the West Temple in the distance.
South Guardian from the distance. This is not too far from where we started the hike. What is hard to see is the 1000' drop straight down into a canyon we have to cross (the Subway canyon) in order to begin climbing the peak.
Tuesday, April 01, 2008
Tanner Beamer Escalante New Hance Loop in Grand Canyon (Mar-Apr 2008)
Postcard from the Edge (of Lipan Pt)
This was a tough, 50 mile loop hike that I have dreamed about doing for a year or two. It starts on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon near Desert View, and descends 9.5 miles for 4500' down the Tanner Trail to the Colorado River. From there it is 18 miles round trip up and back to the Little Colorado River; then 11 miles down river along the Escalante Route to Hance Rapids; and finally 8.5 miles up through Red Canyon on the New Hance Trail back to the rim (where it's a hitchhike of 8 miles back to the car). All of these trails were new to me, and I knew that some of them had tough spots with ledges and exposure and route-finding required.
I woke up at 3AM after getting only three hours of sleep, and drove to Lipan Point where I parked the truck and started (solo) off the rim with a 30 lb pack, with 35 mph south winds howling. Not too soon thereafter I was forced to put on crampons and carefully walk across 2 foot deep snowdrifts that sloped down right to the edge of the cliff. Luckily the snow ended after the first half mile and it was dry all the way to the river. I met only four people during the day, and finally got to the river after 4 hours. I took a nice long break at Tanner Rapids under a shady ledge before venturing north along the river's Beamer Trail for three miles to my first (and second night's) camp at Palisades, next to Lava Canyon Rapids (where Stephanie and I spent one night across the river during our river trip). The wind was so strong that I thought I might get blown off the 300' high ledge down into the river while hiking the Beamer. My poles helped stabilize me, and I found a high bypass in one spot that was much safer. At camp, I quickly set up the tent, ate dinner, and collapsed from being so sleepy. The winds and light rains continued until about 11PM, but I was fast asleep for most of 12 hours.
The next morning I awoke and dayhiked 6 miles each way along the Beamer Trail to the Little Colorado River. Luckily there was no wind, and the weather remained beautiful the rest of the trip. The Beamer is a beautiful hike on some ledges (not so scary) high above the river. I was a little disappointed to see the LCR flowing all muddy, but what can you expect during spring runoff. That night I returned and enjoyed some of the big, clean sandy beaches at Palisades, as well as Tanner's old cabin ruins and his mine.
The next morning I hiked back to Tanner Rapids, rested under my nice ledge, and then continued downriver about 3 miles to Cardenas Creek. Cardenas is a nice area. I dayhiked that evening up to some old Anasazi ruins on the hilltop, where there were some spectacular panoramic 360 degree views. The next morning I continued down the Escalante route, enjoying the views way up high before returning down Escalante Canyon back to the river. From there you are forced to climb back up and down into 75 Mile Canyon. This is a really scenic part of the canyon, as you can look upriver and see the regular rock layers, and then you turn and look downriver to see the supergroup layers and the Vishnu come up out of the ground. I took a nice long break in 75 Mile Canyon narrows before venturing past Nevills Rapids (where Brooke and I spent one night during our river trip) down to Papago Canyon and the challenging 300' high Papago rock slide. Descending the rock slide was not as bad as some of the things I read, and before I knew it I was downriver a half mile to my final camp spot at Hance Rapids.
There were only a few people camping here at Hance, and I ended up finding a nice camp spot high above the river with views of the rapids. The next morning I hiked up and out of the canyon in about 5 hours. I was able to get a hitch back to the truck within 15 minutes from a nice couple. I was really amazed at how beautiful, diverse, and remote this area of the canyon was. I didn't see any people at all on the Beamer, Escalante, or New Hance Trails. Luckily I did not need crampons at the top of the New Hance. My pack weight was down to about 24 lbs at the end.
The weather and drive both ways was great. The trails were through some beautiful parts of the canyon. I enjoyed my meals, and even drinking the silty Colorado River water. Hiking alone was a little nerve racking at first, but by the second day I was fine. I noticed how strong my senses became (smell, hearing, taste, etc), and my dreams each night were so vivid and lasted for so long! Finishing the hike was rewarded with a great sense of accomplishment.
A view of the trail and beyond, halfway down Tanner.
A football field sized beach at Palisades--look at how clean and pristine!
The Little Colorado (bottom right, and muddy) and Colorado Rivers' confluence.
The Hilltop Ruin above Cardenas Beach along the Escalante route.
My pack on cliff edge 600' above Unkar Rapids.
Me during sunrise on Cardenas beach.
Last night's camp spot above Hance Rapids.
Halfway up Red Canyon, looking back down.
Oh what an incredible feeling to top out!
Panoramic video along the high point of the Escalante Route
This was a tough, 50 mile loop hike that I have dreamed about doing for a year or two. It starts on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon near Desert View, and descends 9.5 miles for 4500' down the Tanner Trail to the Colorado River. From there it is 18 miles round trip up and back to the Little Colorado River; then 11 miles down river along the Escalante Route to Hance Rapids; and finally 8.5 miles up through Red Canyon on the New Hance Trail back to the rim (where it's a hitchhike of 8 miles back to the car). All of these trails were new to me, and I knew that some of them had tough spots with ledges and exposure and route-finding required.
I woke up at 3AM after getting only three hours of sleep, and drove to Lipan Point where I parked the truck and started (solo) off the rim with a 30 lb pack, with 35 mph south winds howling. Not too soon thereafter I was forced to put on crampons and carefully walk across 2 foot deep snowdrifts that sloped down right to the edge of the cliff. Luckily the snow ended after the first half mile and it was dry all the way to the river. I met only four people during the day, and finally got to the river after 4 hours. I took a nice long break at Tanner Rapids under a shady ledge before venturing north along the river's Beamer Trail for three miles to my first (and second night's) camp at Palisades, next to Lava Canyon Rapids (where Stephanie and I spent one night across the river during our river trip). The wind was so strong that I thought I might get blown off the 300' high ledge down into the river while hiking the Beamer. My poles helped stabilize me, and I found a high bypass in one spot that was much safer. At camp, I quickly set up the tent, ate dinner, and collapsed from being so sleepy. The winds and light rains continued until about 11PM, but I was fast asleep for most of 12 hours.
The next morning I awoke and dayhiked 6 miles each way along the Beamer Trail to the Little Colorado River. Luckily there was no wind, and the weather remained beautiful the rest of the trip. The Beamer is a beautiful hike on some ledges (not so scary) high above the river. I was a little disappointed to see the LCR flowing all muddy, but what can you expect during spring runoff. That night I returned and enjoyed some of the big, clean sandy beaches at Palisades, as well as Tanner's old cabin ruins and his mine.
The next morning I hiked back to Tanner Rapids, rested under my nice ledge, and then continued downriver about 3 miles to Cardenas Creek. Cardenas is a nice area. I dayhiked that evening up to some old Anasazi ruins on the hilltop, where there were some spectacular panoramic 360 degree views. The next morning I continued down the Escalante route, enjoying the views way up high before returning down Escalante Canyon back to the river. From there you are forced to climb back up and down into 75 Mile Canyon. This is a really scenic part of the canyon, as you can look upriver and see the regular rock layers, and then you turn and look downriver to see the supergroup layers and the Vishnu come up out of the ground. I took a nice long break in 75 Mile Canyon narrows before venturing past Nevills Rapids (where Brooke and I spent one night during our river trip) down to Papago Canyon and the challenging 300' high Papago rock slide. Descending the rock slide was not as bad as some of the things I read, and before I knew it I was downriver a half mile to my final camp spot at Hance Rapids.
There were only a few people camping here at Hance, and I ended up finding a nice camp spot high above the river with views of the rapids. The next morning I hiked up and out of the canyon in about 5 hours. I was able to get a hitch back to the truck within 15 minutes from a nice couple. I was really amazed at how beautiful, diverse, and remote this area of the canyon was. I didn't see any people at all on the Beamer, Escalante, or New Hance Trails. Luckily I did not need crampons at the top of the New Hance. My pack weight was down to about 24 lbs at the end.
The weather and drive both ways was great. The trails were through some beautiful parts of the canyon. I enjoyed my meals, and even drinking the silty Colorado River water. Hiking alone was a little nerve racking at first, but by the second day I was fine. I noticed how strong my senses became (smell, hearing, taste, etc), and my dreams each night were so vivid and lasted for so long! Finishing the hike was rewarded with a great sense of accomplishment.
A view of the trail and beyond, halfway down Tanner.
A football field sized beach at Palisades--look at how clean and pristine!
The Little Colorado (bottom right, and muddy) and Colorado Rivers' confluence.
The Hilltop Ruin above Cardenas Beach along the Escalante route.
My pack on cliff edge 600' above Unkar Rapids.
Me during sunrise on Cardenas beach.
Last night's camp spot above Hance Rapids.
Halfway up Red Canyon, looking back down.
Oh what an incredible feeling to top out!
Panoramic video along the high point of the Escalante Route
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Maui & Oahu for Spring Break (Mar 2008)
On Sasha's 11th birthday we drove to Vegas to catch a direct flight to Oahu. We all had a wonderful time at different beaches each day. The three girls even took surfing lessons from the North Shore's most famous woman surfer and we swam in a cage being surrounded by sharks (see my cell phone blog for photos). After a week staying at Heather's on the North Shore, we flew to Maui for 3 days, where we really enjoyed seeing whales right out the back window of the cottage where we stayed.
The first sunrise, taken 100 yards from Heather's house.
Famous Lanikai Beach with the pyramid shaped islands.
The sand is so fine at Lanikai, I like making sand sculptures.
Brooke and Sasha swinging at the beach.
The three girls at the Polynesian Culture Center.
All of us posing.
America's largest banyan tree in the cute village of Lahaina, on Maui.
One of dozens of whales we saw on Maui.
Our last sunset before returning home.
PCC Samoan Drum Dancers
The first sunrise, taken 100 yards from Heather's house.
Famous Lanikai Beach with the pyramid shaped islands.
The sand is so fine at Lanikai, I like making sand sculptures.
Brooke and Sasha swinging at the beach.
The three girls at the Polynesian Culture Center.
All of us posing.
America's largest banyan tree in the cute village of Lahaina, on Maui.
One of dozens of whales we saw on Maui.
Our last sunset before returning home.
PCC Samoan Drum Dancers
Thursday, March 06, 2008
East Zion (Mar 2008)
This was a hike up Petroglyph Canyon and a scramble up and over some steep slickrock ramps and a saddle down to Keyhole slot canyon. The snow was still visible on the north facing slopes, and Mike and I were able to hike up to the base of Jughandle Arch.
Cookie Jar has snow on it!
Keyhole Canyon--wetsuit and ropes needed to get all the way through.
Cookie Jar has snow on it!
Keyhole Canyon--wetsuit and ropes needed to get all the way through.
Wednesday, March 05, 2008
Soap Creek and the experimental flood (Feb 2008)
The dam people at Lake Powell wanted to experiment flooding the Grand Canyon with 4 or 5 times the normal water in order to see if sand would be redeposited in back eddies and up high on sand banks. So for several days they opened up the dam floodgates and let a lot of water out. I decided to hike 4.5 miles down the relatively easy canyon to Soap Creek Rapids, which is the first major rapid in the river. There was definitely much more water than normal, and the rapids were bigger and faster, as can be seen by this picture:
Soap Creek Rapids Video
Soap Creek Rapids Video
Thursday, February 28, 2008
Fern Gully (Feb 2008)
One of Kim and my favorite hikes is up above Tuacahn through the maze, then down into Padre Canyon, where Fern Gully flows with water from 1500' above after a nice rains storm.
Kim on top of Intersection Peak, looking out over Snow Canyon and across to her far left, to this next photo--
You can see about 7 cascading waterfalls that start at the top and eventually feed the bottom fall--where Fern Gully is. That area straight across is the AC/DC ramp systems that we climbed earlier in another post.
A '7' forms from the light hitting the water! This is looking straight up from Fern Gully.
The bottom of Fern Gully--notice the resurrection moss glowing and growing bright green on the walls!
Kim on top of Intersection Peak, looking out over Snow Canyon and across to her far left, to this next photo--
You can see about 7 cascading waterfalls that start at the top and eventually feed the bottom fall--where Fern Gully is. That area straight across is the AC/DC ramp systems that we climbed earlier in another post.
A '7' forms from the light hitting the water! This is looking straight up from Fern Gully.
The bottom of Fern Gully--notice the resurrection moss glowing and growing bright green on the walls!
Monday, February 18, 2008
Granite/Hermit Loop (Feb 2008)
Well, it was President's Day weekend again, and I guess I've started a new tradition of going to do a major backpack trip down in the Grand Canyon. The snowy and windy weather cleared out, and the forecast was for 40 at night and 60s during the day down by the river. I invited Mike to come along with me for a three day 25+ mile loop hike off the south rim--going down 4500'+ on the Hermit trail to Granite Rapids for one night (10 miles), then across the Tonto over to Hermit Rapids (6 miles) the next night, and then hiking out (9 miles) the third day. There was about 6 inches of snow and ice on the rim, but it was pretty much gone once we descended one thousand feet. At night the nearly full moon lit up the eerie inner gorge of black Vishnu Schist with an interesting hue and glow, along with making curious and even scary shapes in the rocks! The weather cooperated and we both had a great three day trip.
Me next to Granite Rapids. The dark inner gorge is just upstream from here.
A shot of the moon lighting the Vishnu Schist of the inner gorge. The rock here is nearly 2 billion years old!
Me on the Tonto hiking between Monument and Hermit Creek.
The Monument pictured here, with snowy Pima Point almost a mile above .
The Tapeats narrows of Hermit Creek had interesting rock formations and waterfalls and cascades.
Cool view of the inner gorge while hiking out.
After the hike on the rim, we drove out to Pima Point in order to look down on the trails, campsites, and rapids that we visited. I have to say this is my favorite view from the south rim.
Videos of kayakers going through Granite Rapids, and of a waterfall cascading down Hermit Creek.
Me next to Granite Rapids. The dark inner gorge is just upstream from here.
A shot of the moon lighting the Vishnu Schist of the inner gorge. The rock here is nearly 2 billion years old!
Me on the Tonto hiking between Monument and Hermit Creek.
The Monument pictured here, with snowy Pima Point almost a mile above .
The Tapeats narrows of Hermit Creek had interesting rock formations and waterfalls and cascades.
Cool view of the inner gorge while hiking out.
After the hike on the rim, we drove out to Pima Point in order to look down on the trails, campsites, and rapids that we visited. I have to say this is my favorite view from the south rim.
Videos of kayakers going through Granite Rapids, and of a waterfall cascading down Hermit Creek.
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