Zion Narrows with Sasha (June 8, 2007)

I tried to get the whole family to go, but only Sasha wanted to do the Narrows with me. So we spent an entire day hiking all the way up to Big Spring and back. Sasha was extremely cold up to Orderville Canyon, and I thought we would turn around and go back, but she wanted to try going further. Soon thereafter, the air and water and Sasha warmed up, and she and I were the only ones up at Big Spring.



Sasha taking photos everywhere with her mind.
















A cold break next to Orderville Canyon.












Classic rock blocking the river.











Sasha next to Big Spring.













Me up Orderville Canyon at the first waterfall.














Classic Narrows shot.

Old Bright Angel Trail (May 2007)

I got up at 4AM to drive to the North Rim and begin a 17 mile loop hike (with 4400' vertical down and up) across the Ken Patrick Trail 4 miles, down the Old Bright Angel Trail 6 miles, and 7 miles up the North Kaibab Trail back to the truck. This took me 8 hours total, including all breaks. The temp at the rim was 50'ish, and down at Bruce's house it was 90. It was a hot hike out!

From the rim looking down the Old Bright Angel Trail, which is not maintained at all. It was brushy, steep, and ledgey in many places.


















Near the bottom, I walked on ledges above many pools and waterfalls.

















I came 18 inches from stepping on this aggressive pink rattler! I was on a narrow ledge and almost slipped off of it into the above photo's pools.

Rainbow Rim (May 2007)

After the long day on the Old Bright Angel trail, I drove out to Fire Point to spend the night. The next morning I rode my bike along the Rainbow Rim Trail, doing a 9 mile loop of Timp and North Timp points.




I slept in the bed of the truck on a quilt, and this was my view of the sun setting over the western Grand Canyon! I was all alone out on this point too!













From Fire Point, you can look off to the south and see Muav Saddle, the Bass Trail, and Powell Plateau.















A view from my mountain bike. Notice the little white vertical line and green speck in the middle--that's Thunder River!

Wildcat Canyon Connector Trail in Zion (May 2007)

Typical view along the Wildcat Canyon connector trail from Hop Valley to upper Subway. The West Temple in the distance.

Awesome Chasm Overlook (May 2007)

Kim and I hiked up to a spot overlooking Red Mountain and Snow Canyon.



Sun Salutation yoga pose.































At the toll booth, a local guy showed us the gila monster he caught on his back porch.

Zion West Rim Anniversary Hike (May 5, 2007)

For our 18th anniversary, we stayed in Springdale at the Majestic View Lodge, and did a 15 mile hike up the West Rim. We enjoyed outstanding views and beautiful weather.




Angels Landing behind me.














Kim doing the 'full wheel' variation of 'bridge' yoga pose.














Looking west off the West Rim Trail.














I was a little bit chilly up there after lunch.

Virgin River Gorge hike (Apr 2007)

I hiked 5 miles from the freeway up into the Virgin River Gorge. There was not much of a trail, and I had to cross the river many times. It was very quiet (once I got away from the highway), solitaire and scenic, resembling a mini-Grand Canyon. Normally, this hike would be impossible this time of year due to spring runoff. This year is terribly dry.




Typical view.

East Temple (Apr 2007)

I attempted to climb the East Temple in Zion as far as I could go, up above the Canyon Overlook trail. The capstone is quite vertical and looks like several pitches to get to the summit. I did get some nice photos of the canyon though.

Notice the steep slopes below me. I'm on the south side of the East Temple. The West Temple is in the distance.






















Looking south towards Bridge Mountain Arch.










A lone twig on a slab of wavy slickrock.

West Temple in Zion on Easter (Apr 8, 2007)

Easter Sunday 2007. Bo Beck invited me to go up to the West Temple. We start in a neighborhood of Springdale (elev 4000') before sunrise with headlamps, and climb up the route to Kinesava, then veer north up and up and up towards the highest peak in the main canyon part of Zion National Park. The West Temple is protected by sheer sandstone cliffs and ridgelines. The crux is a 5.7 climb 40' up to the shoulder's top. From there we hike across the flat shoulder and up a gully through Carmel capstone gully to where the radio towers are at the summit of 7800', for a total elevation gain of 4000' vertical. We almost stepped on a large rattlesnake at the V Notch. Even though the hike is only 8 miles roundtrip, it feels almost like I did a R2R in the Grand Canyon. It took 4:40 to get up and 3:20 to get down for 8.5 hours round-trip with a half hour break. This is a steep, very exposed, mentally exhausting, but extremely rewarding and spectacular hike/climb / adventure. The views on top are in all directions for many many miles. This is definitely one of the most challenging dayhikes I have ever done. Thank you Bo, for the great idea and opportunity!





A view from the top of the shoulder south, looking at Kinesava's summit.













A view from the radio towers northeast towards the main canyon.










Bo at the bottom after the hike. We are both happy to have completed it. We hiked up the very highest peak in the right hand side of the photo.

Nankoweap (Feb 16-18, 2007)

Grand Canyon! Nankoweap!



















I decided to try this difficult hike at the spur of the moment when I heard that Kim's friend was coming to town for President's Weekend to go see the Parade of Homes. I went to the BLM to secure the permit from GC for three nights. The guy on the phone from the backcountry office wanted me to fill out a hiker information sheet giving my shoe type and size, etc. The BLM didn't have this sheet, so they just let me go, as is, and as a solo hiker. My itinerary was to hike down Nankoweap one night, go over to Kwagunt one night, then back to Nankoweap for the last night.

Friday morning I got up at 4AM and drove to the trailhead. The weather forecast showed a snow storm moving in on the last night, so I was considering shortening my trip to two nights. In the truck halfway there I realized that I had forgotten my first night's meal of chicken strips back home in the freezer. That was the deciding factor for me to just go 3 days and 2 nights. Fortunately, the road across House Rock Valley was dry and in good shape.

I got on the trail at 7:45 and started the 3 mile climb to Saddle Mountain, which is about 1000' in elevation gain. There was hardly any snow, just a few inches in patches, so the hike up the saddle was not difficult. An hour and a half later, after topping out I enjoyed the views, then started the 4 mile traverse through the Supai layer. This is a tedious part of the hike which requires full concentration. There are many boulders and shrubs and trees to go around, up and over. And there are many narrow ledges which are not difficult, but do require full concentration and slower steps. At one point the ledge narrows to six inches with a steep slope down about 10 feet before the cliff goes sheer down a thousand feet or more. Many hikers are intimidated at this point, but I didn't find it too difficult, even with a pack, because there are some nice flat ledges at waist high used for palming and mantling across this section.

After 2.5 hours of the Supai, I finally got on top of the Redwall on the Tilted Mesa ridgeline and enjoyed a quick lunch. The spectacular view here was in 300 degrees. I could see the river down to the east through Little Nankoweap Creek drainage. However, I was going to go down the west side of ridge towards the Nankoweap Creek drainage. This part of the trail was extremely steep--much like going down the gunsight trail off of Red Mountain. The loose rock made the going very slow and tedious, especially with a pack. On down through the redwall, switching back and forth, then doing the same through the Muav layer, then traversing a long ways in the Bright Angel shale--this is how it was going to be. There were a number of narrow sections of the trail here too, but without any handholds. The shale was small and compacted, so fortunately my footing did not slip. The important thing was to focus, take careful steps, and keep moving with balance and to watch the pack for shifts or bumps from obstructions.

Finally, after dropping 3,000' in 3 miles and 2 hours later I arrived at Nankoweap Creek, the first water in 10.5 miles. I took my boots off, put my feet in the creek, and relaxed under a nice cottonwood (no leaves on it yet) at a camp sight. I was debating on staying here the night, but I really wanted to get to the Colorado River. I had met one solo hiker in the middle of the Redwall as he was hiking out. He drove a compact Chevy to the trailhead, and had hiked down the previous night all the way to the river. Now he was on his way out--a very quick trip. He said that he was disappointed that Nankoweap Creek dried up down by the Colorado River, and he was unable to see or catch the trout run up it. It was only 1:45, and so I had plenty of time to meander the 3.5 miles down to the river. I finally got to the river about 8 hours after I left the truck.

Sure enough, about 200 yards from the Colorado, Nankoweap Creek dries up. I turned right and hiked up a small hill that had some ancient walls of ruins intact. I looked across the delta and admired the view. I think this is the best view of the river in the canyon. There was a boat party camped down river a half mile to the right. I decided to walk straight ahead and camp at the foot of the main rapids on a nice sandy beach. That night I enjoyed a freeze dried rice and chicken dinner. The sound of the rapids is so soothing. It was easy for me to go to sleep by 7:30. I listened to half of 'Call of the Wild' on my Ipod.

The next morning after oatmeal, I hiked up 500' on the cliff above camp to the small granaries. This is where the river view is exceptional, as you can see nearly 8 miles of river through a beautiful, narrow marble canyon. Some of the boaters hiked up while I was coming down, and offered me to come to dinner. They were laying over for two nights to do some relaxing and exploring. I decided to dayhike and explore up Little Nankoweap drainage. It has some neat narrows with a little bouldering up and down.

I came back down and got my pack and said goodbye to the river, as I hiked up the creek 3.5 miles to the cottonwood tree camp spot. After setting up camp I continued up the creek another mile or so to check out the creek and the broad valley. There was a swimming hole that invited me in. The air temp was 70, and the water temp was not terribly cold, so I dunked myself and cooled off. On the way back to camp I looked for the horse thief trail that went up the south toward Nankoweap Butte. The trail continues over to Kwagunt and then on down to Lava/Chuar Valley. This is where horse thieves would take their stolen horses down Nankoweap, cross the Colorado, and ride up Tanner Trail on the south side of the canyon to escape posses.

That night after finishing a Chile Mac dinner, the temps were in the mid 40s, maybe a little bit warmer than when camping by the river. I finished 'Call of the Wild' and listened to a few tunes. Next morning after oatmeal I hit the trail by 7:30. It was slightly overcast, which helped keep the hot sun away. It was very long and strenuous, but I made it back to the truck 6.5 hours later. This is a very difficult hike, probably the most difficult one I have endeavored with a backpack. Some people say that North Bass is the most difficult, but I think Nankoweap is slightly more difficult. I did the North Bass a few months ago so it's fresh on my mind. If Nankoweap is a 10, then North Bass is a 9, on a scale of difficulty. These are the reasons why I think Nankoweap is more difficult:

1. No water for 10.5 miles
2. The 4 mile Supai traverse is very mentally exhausting
3. The Redwall descent is very loose and steep and mentally challenging. The Redwall in North Bass is steep too, but not as long.
4. Time required--it took me about 45 minutes longer to go the same distance and elevation compared to North Bass. This is most likely due to it being steeper in the Redwall, and more taxing through the Supai.

That being said, would I do it again? Most definitely, after a number of years have passed. I would like to explore Kwagunt and possibly get down to the Little Colorado, get ferried across by a passing boater, and then continue down the Beamer/Tanner trail out to the South Rim. I would also cache water on top of Tilted Mesa. I had only 2 liters with me, and I could have used a third one! Marion Seber seep was bone dry, compared to slowly dripping two years ago when I dayhiked down to check out the 'scary ledge' spot in the Supai.

Elevations:
Saddle Mtn TH: 6800'
Top of the saddle: 7600'
Tilted Mesa ridgeline: 6500'
Nankoweap Creek: 3600'
Colorado River: 2800'
Total Miles: 14 (day 1); 9 (day 2); 10.5 (day 3)

On the way home I drove over to Buck Farm overlook. This was a nice view right there from the road on the rim.

-dNally

View West from Tilted Mesa



















View south from Tilted Mesa. Nankoweap Mesa in the background.




















Cliff face from Colorado River and Nankoweap Creek.




























Colorado River from Nankoweap Ruins



















Ruins in Nankoweap


















Narrows in Little Nankoweap Creek.

Bryce in winter (Jan 2007)

Bright red hoodoos covered with snow. This is how Bryce National Park is in the winter. The area is usually only accessible by cross country ski. But this year (Jan 2007) has been drier than usual, and the road was opened all the way to the end.













A tree with its roots hanging on the edge of a cliff.













Raven begging for food at the parking area of an overlook.

West Rim winter (Jan 2007)

A day after a major storm in January, I hiked up the West Rim Trail 2 miles towards Angels Landing. I stopped at Scout Lookout, decided to not go across the chains, but instead went another mile or two up the West Rim Trail. The snow was magnificient, and I got some pictures up high looking down on Walter's Wiggles.














Look at the wiggles!





















A view of the Northgate Peaks in winter.

Snow Canyon sandstone in West Canyon (Jan 2007)

In Jan 2007 I biked up West Canyon 4 miles (in Snow Canyon), and climbed up on some beautiful wavy layered slickrock.

North Bass (Oct 2006)

The North Bass trail is located west of the North Rim Lodge about 15 or 20 miles along some rough dirt roads. This trail is one of the longest and most difficult trails in the park. It starts at 7200' and drops a vertical mile to the river at 2000' in the course of 14 miles. I got a permit for 2 nights and 3 days, to hike solo. I have always been interested in doing this hike after I traveled out the rough, bumpy road to Swamp Point 5 years ago with Mike Burkley when we backpacked down the 3/4 mile trail to Muav Saddle and then up the other side to Powell Plateau. The North Bass trail turns south at the bottom of the Muav Saddle, and continues another 12 miles down 5000' to the Colorado River.

The trail drops down about 600' to Muav Saddle where Teddie's cabin is still intact. If you keep heading west on the trail, you can climb up to the Powell Plateau, which is a hike I did many years ago with Mike Burkley. The North Bass trail turns left here at the saddle and heads pretty much due south all the way to the Colorado River. In the last two years, the park's trail crews improved the section through the Coconino and Hermit layers. Now the trail switches back nicely all the way to the Supai layer. In the Coconino there is a small seep which I used on the climb out.

The trail through the upper layers has been rebuilt, and is not too bad, other than being steep. Once you hike into the Supai layer the trail does a little bushwhacking and a tiny stream appears. This continues until you arrive at the top of the Redwall, where a big pouroff blocks further passage. A rebuilt trail continues on the right side back up along the Supai layer for about 1 mile until you get ready to literally plunge down through the Redwall. This is the steepest and loosest section of the whole trail, and could be dangerous if you are not careful. Once at the bottom of the deep Redwall, water starts to flow again and the rock hopping begins for the next several miles all the way down through the Muav and Bright Angel layers. There are several bypasses that help you avoid pouroffs. There is a large pouroff at the top of the Tapeats which requires you to choose to go downstream, or stream right across the Tonto layer for a couple of miles on a restored trail. I chose the bypass route.

After 2 miles you come into view of Shinumo Creek from way up high and are required to switchback down about 500' to the floor of the canyon. This trail section is not bad either, and the views are spectacular. Once on the floor, the creek provides coolness and trees provide shade. I continued another mile downstream to the lower Shinumo camp site. This required crossing Shinumo Creek several times, but I never had to get my shoes wet. The lower camp is near Bass's old camp site, and many relics are left from a century ago. I slept well after eating some chicken and half a sandwich. I was in a very deep, remote section of the canyon. I was quite exhausted from hiking nearly seven hours, so sleep came easily. I awoke early and ate oatmeal, then hiked 1.5 miles up and over a 600' hill and back down to the Colorado River. I ran into a river party there. They were camped at the Bass beach and were just getting ready to eat breakfast. They invited me to eat and drink with them, and I would have, had I not already eaten a pretty large breakfast.

I was hoping to get down to lower Shinumo Creek waterfall, but there is no way to continue along the Colorado River without swimming. So I hiked back to my camp site, picked up my pack and hiked upstream a mile. I dropped off my pack at the campsite at the bottom of the Tapeats part of the trail, then continued dayhiking up Shinumo Creek to the confluence of White Creek. I turned north and went up White Creek a mile or so. The water flow here was fairly small, but there were many pools and small climbs which needed to be negotiated. This was a beautiful, narrow gorge that consisted of mostly Vishnu Schist. A couple of waterfalls were present too. I went back down to Shinumo and tried going up that, but was stopped after a few minutes by narrow walls. I could have continued only if I wanted to get my feet wet. Back by the confluence I took a dip in a pool to cool off. That was only about the fifth time I had swam during the 95 degree heat the last two days. I noticed a faint trail going up to the South. I thought maybe there was a camp site up there. Instead, I found an Anasazi village area. There were four or five ruins that had only the base of their walls standing. Several granaries existed up in the cliffs too. I saw old pine nuts and small corn cobs.

That night I slept under the stars and was awakened around midnight by a lizard or mouse running across my neck. The next morning I got up around 6AM and started hiking up the Tapeats in the dark. I wanted to beat the sun as much as possible. I hiked quickly uphill until I arrived at the top of the Supai. Then I ran out of fuel and water, and the sun was beating down on me. I slowly got myself out of the canyon in about 5.5 hours, which is not too bad, considering this is definitely one of the most difficult trails in the canyon. The fall colors were very brilliant on the way home in the Kaibab forest. I was relieved to arrive home. I had seen nobody while down in the depths of the canyon for those three days. It was a very spectacular area and had a great feeling to it.

R2R2R across the Grand Canyon (Oct 2006)

Kim really wanted to try a rim-to-rim (R2R) in the Grand Canyon. I had done one back in 2003--actually a R2R2R in two days and one night. I suggested we do a R2R2R instead, and save the time and gas it takes to shuttle two cars back and forth between the rims. We trained by hiking some big hikes and mountains. We started at the North Rim and hiked down 14 miles and 6000' vertical to Phantom Ranch in about 5 hours, after stopping off at Ribbon Falls. After eating a bagel and drinking some lemonade, we hiked up a vertical mile in 7.5 miles to the South Rim in another 4 hours. We took the shuttle to the store to buy some snacks, then off to the lodge for dinner and sleep. It was nice to get a warm shower before getting up at 5AM and repeating the 22 mile hike back across the canyon in about 9 hours. Kim loved it so much that she wants to do it again!





Kim rehydrating on the South Kaibab trail.














The Kaibab suspension bridge across the Colorado River.















The sunset from the Bright Angel Lodge after a long day's hike. One more day of hiking to go!













Kim happy as ever on the second day.